Tubeless Tips Series: Leak Repair
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This is the 2nd post in our series of tubeless tire tips. If you’ve missed the first part about detecting leaks, you can read it here: Part 1
Tubeless Tire Leak Repair (leaks that are not due to a puncture or casing failure):
Leaks at the valve
Remove and inspect the valve. If it is damaged, it will need to be replaced. If you are out on the trail you will need to install an inner tube to complete the ride.
Leaks under the tire bead
This type of leak requires new parts or using an inner tube. In an emergency a caulking adhesive or thick, non-hardening adhesive (such as traditional sew-up tire glue) can seal up a small leak between the tire and rim strip temporarily. It should be used only as a temporary measure to complete a ride when spares are not available.
Leaks through the tire casing
Occasionally you might have a leak in an otherwise serviceable tire casing that allows air to escape at an unacceptably high rate. A bubble test will reveal the location(s) of the leaks. Normal patching methods will work, or a fluid tire sealant such as Bontrager Super Juice or Stan’s might reduce the leak rate too. If sealant is used you should hold the wheel sideways (rotational plane horizontal) to allow the sealant to cover the leaks.
Stay tuned for the next part on rimstrip repairs or subscribe to the feed.
Related posts:
- Tubeless Tips Series: Detecting Leaks
- Tubeless Tips Series: Tips and Tricks
- Tubeless Tips Series: What to bring on a ride
- Tubeless Tips Series: Inflation valves, rims, spokes
- Tubeless Tips Series: Rim Strip Issues
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